We use full carbon Toray T700 & T800 carbon fiber.

Tubular:

A tubular – or tub – is a tire with an inner tube stitched inside. The tubular is glued to a specially designed rim, or sometimes stuck there with double-sided tape. If you puncture a tubular, you can often repair it with a Latex-based liquid sealant. Otherwise, you have to take the tubular off the rim, open up the backing, patch the tube, sew it up and stick it back on. It’s a faff, to be blunt.

Clincher:

Clinchers tires are what the vast majority of us use these days: tyres with beads around the edge that hook into the rim of a clincher wheel, with entirely separate inner tubes that you can repair or replace if you puncture.

Tubeless:

Tubeless tires are a style of tire which interfaces directly with a special type of bike rim – a tubeless rim – to create a seal, and no inner tube is required. There is a liquid sealant which is used to create a strong juncture between the tubeless tire and the rim.

Asymmetrical rims

are designed and drilled to compensate for the offset design of most hubs. The asymmetry of the rim allows the spokes to equalize in tension between the drive and non-drive sides of the wheel. The result is in more even spoke lengths and a stronger wheel build which requires less truing than a traditional rim.

Symmetrical rims

utilize standard drilling practices and do not compensate for the offset hub design. The result is a wheel build that may not be as strong as an asymmetrical build, but comes as a more cost effective option.

Your rim brake pads need maintenance as well as your wheels.

When the cuts are full with dirt you need to open de cuts again, so they can drain the dirt again. When the cuts are worn you need the pads to be replaced with new ones.

For Full Carbon rim brake wheels we recommend Swissstop Black Prince.

For Alu rim brake or disc brake we recommend the pads provided by the brand of the group-set on your bicycle.

Rim brake:

When the cuts in the pads are worn then you should replace the pads. Don’t let the pads wear too much, it will ruin your rims in short time.

Disc Brake:

When the disc brake pads in your bike start to make noise you should check the wear. Worn out pads can damage your disc brake rotors.

If you want to clean your carbon or alloy brake surface without harming the material of the rim or influence the braking performance we recommend to clean your rims with Acetone. It is recommended to clean every once in a while when you are riding with rim brake.when you are riding disc brakes its of course not necessary.

Our road disc brake wheels are built without braking track, but if you need the rims to be with brake track, please contact us to customize your order.

Sure! Please let us know which nipples you’re looking for. For spokes, we’d need to understand the length or wheel build specifics, and type of spoke you require so that we can ensure we have them in stock.

The weight difference is about 50g for a 32h wheelset.

Brass: 1.09g/pcs

Alloy: 0.36g/pcs

With rim brake, when your wheel is in your bike you can check the straightness when you carefully look beside your brake-pads and spin your wheel, you will see if your wheel wobbles. If it does it needs to be checked.

When you have disc wheels, and you see your wheel wobbling please let your local bike shop check your aligment asap.

Please note that a wobbling wheel can also be caused by the tire which is not fitted correctly or has a faulty section. Therefore it’s needed to look at any movement on the rim and not the tire.

You can use a solvent like benzene (white spirit) to get the glue off. But if there’s not too glue left on the rim much then you can glue the new tire on top of the ‘old’ glue. This will soften up when it comes in contact with the new glue.

NEVER use a sharp or hard tool to scrape off the glue. You could damage the carbon rim and endanger the structural integrity.

For road rims: max 125psi for clincher, max 180psi for tubular, max 90psi for tubeless

For 20″ rims: max 125psi

For MTB rims: max 65psi

Front Wheel: 110-120kgf

Rear Wheel: Non Drive Side : 90-100kgf , Drive Side：140kgf

For external nipple builds (standard), you can use the ERD listed on the rim pages on our website. *Standard nipple heads only. If you are using nipples with a raised head like DT Squorx or Sapim/DT double square or hex nipples then you need to add 2mm to the ERD. As with ANY wheel build, the most accurate way to get the ERD is to measure it on your specific rims because the ERD can vary.

For internal nipple builds, generally speaking you’d need to add 8mm to the ERD.

Please contact us if you want us to calculate the spoke length, here is what we’d need to know:

• Internal hole rim or external hole rim
• Hub manufacturer name and model
• Hole counts
• Front and rear axle width
• Straight pull or J-bend
• Spoke lacing preference (2-cross? 3-cross?)
• Nipple preference (If you are using nipples with larger heads double square, Squorx or Hex etc. then we will need to know as longer spokes are required!).