The purchase and arrival of high-quality 29 carbon rims is an exciting time for any rider. We have compile a candidate list of carbon fiber rim characteristics for you to check when you unpack your newly purchased light bike.
High-quality 29 carbon rims
High-quality 29 carbon rims feature 1: smooth wall
The smoothness of the rim wall requires precision molding and strict quality control. But some cheap mass-produced rim manufacturers lack attention to detail. Why is edge smoothness important? It is not only a sign of quality, but also prevents people from being cut or scratched when installing tires or making wheels.
High-quality 29 carbon rims feature 2: Deburring holes
Cured carbon fiber is a hard material, and each bundle is composed of thousands of fibers. Given this physical quality, the drilling will leave burrs, which prevents accurate wheel manufacturing. Deburring is critical to wheel performance and service life.
There are also many products in High-quality 29 Carbon Rims that are worth recommending. Such as:
How do we achieve smooth drilling? One is a diamond drill bit, which is very suitable for drilling hard materials. The second is a computer numerical control (CNC) milling machine to ensure precise movements. In the process of detail processing, carefully deburring to ensure that the edge of the hole is completely smooth.
Simple adjustment method of 29 carbon rims
Many riders will encounter problems with carbon fiber rim. Regardless of whether it is a finished wheel set or a self-made wheel set, there will be slight deviations over time. And the chances of the rims of the enthusiastic riders are not great. To a certain extent, this is due to some deformation of the steel spokes or rims during normal use. Resulting in a certain degree of damage to the tensile force, the overall strength of the wheel set will weaken. And the probability of wheel yaw will increase a lot.
If it is not adjust in time and used violently, when the tension is unbalance to a certain extent, more serious consequences will occur. Such as broken spokes or damaged rims, or even tipping over without warning. These are irreversible. Early detection and treatment can greatly reduce the risk of wheel damage.
Master-level adjustment requires more equipment. But we can roughly understand some methods and principles of adjusting rims, and perform simple adjustments to meet daily use.
The carbon wheel set is mainly composed of three parts: the hub, the spokes and the rim. The spokes play a very important role. Relatively balanced tension can evenly disperse the impact force of the wheelset. The wheel group can accept a variety of reasonable reasons.
However, if the spoke tension is uneven, some spokes will be more impacted. When the impact force is greater than the pressure of the stressed spoke, the wheelset will damage. Therefore, the goal of our wheel/rim adjustment is to make all spokes have a reasonable average tension in order to maintain the balance of the wheel forces.
Generally riders will encounter two situations, one is that the rim has left and right yaw, and the other is that the rim is not round and jumps up and down.
The first thing to do is to confirm the tension of all spokes. This is very important, better than random tuning. Most people can feel the tension gap between the spokes. Drivers can mark which one is looser and which is tighter. Then observe the yaw yaw or up and down yaw, know where the jump or yaw is too large, and then continue to adjust that position.
The tightness of the spokes is theoretically a good thing to tighten the spokes. But it is still not recommend to use excessive tension. It is recommend to loosen the tight spokes to adjust the yaw of the spokes, and found that the spokes are too large. When the tension is different, you should actively correct the tension between the two spokes that cross each other. And try to correct the same tension as much as possible.
To adjust the up and down bounce, pay attention to observe the beating part of the rim. And then adjust it according to the range of the spokes that can control by the beating part. If there is a protruding part, adjust the four spokes of the corresponding part at the same time. The basis of the difference between spokes. If there is a recessed part, it is reasonable to control the four spokes on the corresponding part of the rim to loosen it. Everything we do is to make every spoke of the wheel subject to even pressure.
After adjustment, don’t forget to squeeze all the spokes to release the virtual position and stress. And then check whether the rim has yaw. If so, continue to adjust. If there is no yaw, it is recommend to increase the spoke tension a little within a reasonable interval.
As one of the core components of a bicycle, the answer to whether the wheel needs regular inspection and maintenance is obvious: If you want it to maintain a better condition and have a longer service life, then it must maintain regularly. First, through careful inspection, understand the usage or remaining life of the wheel. If it is damaged or unusable, it can be further replaced to keep the wheels in their best condition at all times.
Next is the inspection, the inspection of the gear train:
1.Bearings and quick release
Is the tightness of the quick release normal? It is recommend that the two fingers should not pull too hard. It would be better if the original factory has a calibrated torque value. When your quick release is stuck and you feel that the wheel set can move laterally or there is a lateral frame, there may be a problem with your bearing. If you cannot turn the wheel smoothly, it may be that the bearing is too tight or the inside is rust. In either case, you need to disassemble and adjust the quick release rod or bearing.
If you are riding in a good environment, dry and sand-free, it is recommend to clean the bearings and re-oil them every 2-3 months. No need to remove them from the hub, just remove the shell, clean them with a rag and degreaser. If you have a compressed air gun, the effect will be better. If you are riding in wet, damp, and muddy conditions, and you are riding multiple times a week. It is recommend that you perform these checks at least once a month. To check whether the bearings are worn, you just need to move them with your fingers and check for free rotation or friction. It is also recommend to check if they have a horizontal frame volume, which is a symptom of wear.
If the rotation resistance is great, it is recommend to replace them. Most rear hubs have two sets of internal bearings that need to inspect and replace, and pawls and springs need to clean and re-oil. Clean and re-oil with the correct lubricant. Cheaper wheelsets usually use open bearing systems. Replacing these types of bearings is a relatively simple and low-cost process.
2.Does the wheel deflect?
You can use the brake pads or the frame as a reference for inspection. When you rotate and observe that the space on both sides of the wheel increases or decreases by more than 2mm, it means that your wheel set is not suitable. If you continue to ride in this state, the deflection will become more and more serious, and it will also bring a certain degree of danger.
3.Are there any damage or impact marks on the surface of the spokes?
Too high or too low spoke tension will also accelerate wheel wear. If any one of the spokes is loose, damaged or broken, it will affect the rest of the spokes that are part of the wheelset, so it is recommend to check the spoke tension at regular intervals, whether it is a mountain bike or a road bike. In addition, qualified technicians are the best to perform this work. And the correct tools must be used. If these tools are not used, the risk of damage to the spokes or caps increases.
4.Is the brake surface of the rim smooth, or is the disc deformed?
Check for bumps with naked eyes and fingers. Although the design mileage of the rim may exceed 40,000 kilometers, it may be greatly reduced if it is improperly maintained under wet and sandy conditions. If the sidewall of the rim brake is worn too thin, it will cause the rim to deform or break under pressure.
Whether it is aluminum alloy or carbon fiber, the inside and outside must inspect at least several times a year. Check for cracks, that is, whether the brake surface is clean and there is no sign of damage to the edge of the rim, which may affect the correct fit of the tire or loss of tubeless rim sealant. For inner tubes, check whether the wheel positions are correct and clean the tires regularly. In addition, it is best to use the original brake pads recommended by the manufacturer to avoid unpredictable problems.
In addition, if road vehicles use aluminum rim brake rubber, the metal chips embedded in the brake rubber need to clean regularly, which can effectively avoid abnormal wear of the brake rim.
5.Are the tires cracked? Is there an arc from the front? Are the bead and rim tightly integrated? Does the inner tube have rubber openings, etc.?
Before that, be sure to observe the recommended air pressure on the tires, and do not exceed or fall below the recommended air pressure, otherwise it is likely to be dangerous.
Regardless of the tire system used, regular inspections are very important. If you use traditional tires and inner tubes, make sure to install the inner tube at the correct angle and there is no angle between the valve and the rim. For tubular tires, the most important aspect is the bonding process. If they are not correct, they will not be located in the center of the rim, or in the worst case, they may fall off during riding, causing serious injury to the rider. If you are not sure how to install the tube tire, it is recommend to ask a professional for help.
For tubeless tires, replace the glue at least once a quarter, and occasionally check whether the air nozzle is tighten and whether there is any leakage. Regardless of the type of tires used (traditional tires, tube tires, or tubeless tires), make sure that they do not have any signs of damage, cuts, or holes that could cause bursts. If this is the case, please replace them immediately.
Regular cleaning of metal shavings, glass shards and small rocks embedded in the tread can reduce the chance of a tire blowout.
You can take a few minutes to check the life of a bicycle wheel, thereby extending its life tenfold. If the spoke tension is unbalance, the wheel hub is loose or the bearing is tight and brittle. The first-class carbon fiber racing steering wheel will not work properly. Think of it as simply protecting your investment: keeping your wheels in good condition, you can ensure a long service life and many years of enjoyment when driving on roads or trails.
Start with the wheel still on the bike to determine the condition of the wheel hub. Swing each one from side to side and feel playing or knocking into the bearing. Turn each wheel and hear how smooth it is. If you hear a rumble, you need to replace the bearing. Wheel hubs with cup and cone races will require new loose ball bearings. You can use a pair of cone wrenches, allen wrenches, or both to adjust the hub. If your hub has cassette bearings and does not have a preload adjuster, you most likely need a new bearing.
By keeping the wheels in good condition, you can ensure a long service life and many years of fun when you are driving on roads or trails.
You can also use the wheels on your bicycle to check the condition of the carbon fiber rim. Rotate each wheel to determine its straightness. Uneven spoke tension or curved rims can cause wobble. Squeeze the opposite spokes in pairs, noting any differences in tension. If the carbon fiber rim is wobble and the spoke tension is uneven, the rim is likely to be fake. Next, look for any hops on the rim. Experienced wheel manufacturers can usually repair egg-shaped wheels. If there is a large flat point between several spokes, the rim may bend.
Technically, the flat points on the aluminum rim can be bent backwards, but in reality, as long as the rim must be physically manipulated, the integrity of the wheel will compromise. On the other hand, carbon fiber rims cannot be bent. If the wheel is incorrect, it is either due to uneven spoke tension or cracks. You should find a mechanic with carbon fiber rim manufacturing experience to make the final diagnosis of the wheel.
Now it is time to remove the wheel from the bike to further inspect the hub. Manually rotate each axis. Pay attention to the smooth (or crunchy) feel of the axle. If it is not silky smooth, it needs to overhaul. For the rear hub, check the hub body by rotating the flywheel counterclockwise. If it can spin freely, it may be fine. If there is any sluggishness, then an overhaul should resolve it.
Braking will wear the brake track on the rim. Whether it is carbon fiber or aluminum rim, as the brake pad wears, it will form a convex groove; if it is left for too long, it will eventually crack. You can use suitable brake pads for the rim material to slow down this process. In addition, please keep your mat free of dust and debris. Pick out any large pieces of dirt and aluminum from the mat and sand them with light sandpaper. For aluminum wheels, check the rim around the spoke holes for fine lines and cracks, especially on the rear wheels. It is not uncommon to see these cracks on old wheels. If you do see cracks, you need to replace the rim because the wheel can no longer maintain proper tension.
The spokes are only as strong as the weakest spokes on the wheel. If the wheel keeps falling off the spokes, it needs to loosen and restore to a uniform tension.
It only takes a few minutes to determine if your wheels require more attention. A good rule of thumb is to check them when you wash your bike. Dirty wheels usually hide potential problems, such as cracks in the spoke holes. You want everything to be in top condition so that you can drive smoothly on roads or trails.
We have strict quality control standards and focus on the quality of carbon wheels. We are very happy that you can use high-quality 29 Carbon Rims and hope to provide the best experience. Please take some time to learn about your high-quality 29 carbon rims. We would love to hear your feedback.
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